3 days trek in Hoang Su Phi, Ha Giang - part 2
- on Jan 20, 2020       By: BN
Second day of the trek in Hoang Su Phi, Ha Giang
A very beautiful day in magnificent landscapes of rice fields and forests. First is a long morning climb in the woods, near the dry stone tombs, then a wide "balcony" path in the middle of bamboo and tea trees.
It crosses rare hamlets or meanders near isolated houses and water points. A dog and ducks send some barking and other sounds to signal our passage...
The forest track that we take is the only link to circulate and there reigns a certain activity: the Dao in traditional dress, pickaxe on the shoulder or some fresh plants for pigs, buffaloes in pasture or even in the bath in the rice field... It's time to think about lunch!
Stop at Dao’s place for an excellent meal prepared by the family in a house where three generations had lived and cohabited not far from the track. Have some fried pork, chicken, a few bamboo shoots and bindweed, accompanied by a large ladle of rice and two or three glasses of "happy water" to calm our appetite! It will be high time to leave after a short nap and a few discussions with the happy family…
What have you become, Grandma Dao?
At the same time, the idle grandmother and let's say it, a little absent minded had wandered in this big house and in the courtyard then comes back to sit down next to the little grandchild, in the doorway, before leaving always in silence and sad eyes...
What have you become, Grandma Dao? My recovery is a bit difficult with a long ascent, on the mountainside in the forest. The landscape becomes clearer with the rising wind and the few low clouds running in the sky, confirm the approach of a pass... The sun is hot and despite this wind, the polo shirt comes out very wet! Yet the day is not over...
Could Stendhal have liked this combination of colours?
After switching to the other market slope a few hundred metres on a deserted road, we descend a ravine to cross a torrent by jumping from rock to rock... Now, the narrow path descents, making us climbing and crossing the rice fields terraces...
The late afternoon mists begin to invade and mask the distance... But where is the village that we planned to stop? It is discovered at the last minute, huddled behind a small promontory, on a ledge. I had a very pleasant and friendly welcome by the family with big smiles and a cup of tea. I take my quarters under the mosquito net that is assigned to me and then head off to the shower! Surprise... Tonight I'm sleeping at the black Dao's... ☺!
To be continued
Text and photo: Marcel Labretelle
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